Haut Brion 2017 (RP97)

A blend of 53% Merlot, 6.3% Cabernet Franc and 40.7% Cabernet Sauvignon, the deep garnet-purple colored 2017 Haut-Brion sashays gracefully out of the glass with fragrant notions of black raspberries, kirsch, dark chocolate, star anise and candied violets with a core of warm red and black currants and a touch of pencil lead. Medium to full-bodied, the palate bursts with red and black fruit layers, superbly supported by firm, ripe, finely grained tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and mineral laced.At Chateau Haut-Brion and neighboring La Mission Haut-Brion, only about one hectare out of around 80 hectares of vineyards was damaged by frost in 2017. It seemed that in the areas where there was a little wind, there was no frost. Budbreak was on March 13—not so early for this warm little pocket of vineyards close to the city—but the evolution of the vines was certainly faster than usual for the rest of the spring. It was a very dry, warm spring with even flowering. At the end of June, there was some rain to quench the parched vines, then July was a little cooler, according to Jean-Philippe Delmas. By mid-September, after the whites had already come in, the rains became an issue. The Merlot was almost all in before the rain, but the Cabernet Franc was affected and not much was used this year. Cabernet Sauvignon was harvested after the rains. Overall yields averaged out at a very respectable 49.6 hectoliters per hectare.While the reds are incredibly impressive at both properties in 2017, I have to confess that I was completely blown away by the caliber of the whites. WOW! Possessing at once electric intensity and yet bags of tightly wound layers just waiting to be expressed over many years of cellaring, this is a truly spectacular vintage for the dry whites at both estates.